Pet Health & Behavior

Caring for Orphan Kittens

The Delaware Humane Association does its best to provide medical care, sheltering, and adoption services for as many animals as possible. However, as a private, non-profit organization, our resources are limited, and we cannot always admit every animal in need. As a public service we offer this manual, Caring for Orphan Kittens, in the hope that compassionate individuals who find helpless animals will be able to give them the necessary care.

Caring for Orphan Kittens is intended for use by individuals who need advice on raising orphan kittens. The goal is to provide valuable information that might literally mean the difference between life and death for a helpless animal. This manual may be downloaded and printed for individual private use, but may not be distributed or sold.

OVERVIEW: The first section lists some essential supplies, followed by a list of supplemental items. The second section provides advice on care based on week-by-week development of the kitten. It covers such topics as feeding the kitten, stimulating it to eliminate waste, weaning from the bottle, hygiene, warmth, litter training, socialization, and teaching the kitten to eat solid food. The last section lists some common problems and suggests possible solutions.

This manual is based on many years of experience, but it is not written by a veterinarian, nor is it intended to be a substitute for proper veterinary care. Any animal in your care should be taken to a veterinarian for medical treatment and appropriate vaccinations.


Supplies

Feeding

  1. Kitten milk replacement powdered formula (KMR)--available at pet supply stores (note: KMR can also be purchased already mixed; but this is more expensive and also needs to be used quickly; it’s cheaper, more efficient, and safer to buy KMR in powder form)
  2. feeding bottle (available at pet supply stores)
  3. pint- or quart-size plastic bottle to store prepared KMR in refrigerator
  4. food and water bowls (for weaned kittens)
  5. dry kitten food (this is cheaper and usually more nutritious than canned food; small amounts of canned food, mixed with dry, are recommended for finicky eaters)

Sleeping

  1. animal carrier
  2. towels
  3. heating pad to place under the towel (never place kittens directly on heating pad; use a towel as a cushion and be sure the pad is set on low)

Elimination

  1. toilet paper or tissue or cotton balls (for inducing elimination in very young kittens; see details in section on care of 1-2 week old kittens)
  2. litter pan and litter (for when kittens are about 3 weeks old

Cleaning

  1. a few washcloths and a few towels. Since soap may cause skin allergies, use only mild liquid soap and be sure to rinse the kitten thoroughly.
  2. In addition to these essential supplies, you might like to acquire these supplemental items:
  3. toys (be sure they are safe--no parts that can be swallowed or can cause choking, no feathers or yarn, etc.)
  4. plastic bags to scoop out puddles and stools from litter box (newspaper delivery bags are very useful)
  5. newspapers to protect your floor
  6. small paper plates as substitutes for the food bowl
  7. box of tissues, roll of paper towels for quick clean-ups
  8. aluminum pie plates or lasagna trays (to substitute for litter box if you are training very small kittens who might have trouble climbing into a regular litter box)
  9. soft stuffed animals to provide warmth, companionship, and tactile stimulation

Caretaking of Kittens Based on
Week by Week Development

Below are descriptions of progressive stages of kittens' development. They are general guidelines—your kittens' progress and behavior may vary.

1-2 weeks old

At this age, kittens are fairly easy to take care of because their activities are exclusively sleeping, eating, and eliminating. Since their legs are unsteady, their mobility is very limited. Kittens under 3 weeks should be confined in a plastic carrier or sturdy box, lined with soft towels. Since orphans don’t have their mother to keep them warm, you need to provide the warmth. An electric heating pad SET ON LOW and covered with a towel will do the trick. Never place a kitten directly on the heating pad, and always provide a small area for the kitten to get off of the pad if it gets too warm (even newborn kittens can stumble to or from a source of heat).

Caretaking at this stage will consist of bottle feeding, inducing elimination, and changing the bedding when needed.

Bottle feeding

  1. Keep a 1- or 2-day supply of prepared KMR in the refrigerator. Mixing directions are on the can: the general guideline is to mix 3 parts water with 1 part formula. How much you make at a time depends on how many kittens you are feeding.At feeding time, warm a small bottle of prepared KMR so that it is just a little warmer than room temperature. It's a good idea to wrap a small towel or washcloth lightly around the kitten while you feed it. This will make the kitten feel more secure, and will also protect your hands from scratches. Also, a kitten with a full bladder may not want to nurse, so before feeding, stimulate it to induce elimination (see below).
  2. Bottle feeding more than one kitten: Kittens often all get hungry at the same time. Since you can only feed one kitten at a time, feeding time can sometimes be stressful for you and for the kittens. To reduce stress, try feeding the kittens in 2 rounds; this means that instead of feeding each kitten until it's full, feed each one for a couple of minutes so that everybody gets some nourishment promptly and then they all get a "second serving" to fully satisfy them. If the frantic cries of the ones not eating create stress for you, simply go to another room to feed the kitten you're attending to. Remember, you know that eventually everyone will be fed, so don't get upset because the hungry kittens are upset.
  3. After each meal, burp kitten by patting it gently on the back (like burping a human baby). Also after feeding, stimulate kitten to eliminate (see below).
  4. Try to feed the kittens 5 times a day. An ideal schedule would be to feed them early morning, late morning, mid afternoon, early evening, late evening. Adjust this schedule to accommodate your own working/lifestyle schedule. You may prefer to do a late night feeding in place of one of the other times.

Inducing elimination

  1. Before and after you feed the kitten, take a small wad of toilet paper, cotton, or tissue and gently rub the kitten's genitals and anus; this will induce elimination of solid and/or liquid waste).
  2. Note: Tactile stimulation is very important to the development and socialization of kittens, so gently handle them as often as you like. This will teach them to trust you and other humans, and will provide you with many pleasurable moments. At all stages of kittens' growth it is very important that you wash your hands before and after you handle the kittens. This will reduce the spread of germs, a factor important to the health of your foster kittens as well as to the health of your own pets. Also, confine your foster kittens away from your own pets to further prevent the spread of any contagious diseases.

Bedding

  1. Very young kittens may spontaneously urinate or defecate in their bed. Check to be sure the bedding is dry and clean. Old towels that can be changed frequently are very handy. Kittens that are kept dry and warm will not only be more comfortable, but also healthier and easier to litter train.

3 weeks old

Kittens will be steadier on their feet and will begin moving around more. Once they start to leave their carrier, set up an enclosed space that will include the carrier, litter box, and a small area to run around. If you don’t have a large cage, boxes, overturned tables, bookcases, etc., can be used to set up an enclosed area. Once the kittens start climbing, you'll want to heighten the barricade. Soft stuffed animals, which provide warmth and tactile stimulation, are particularly valuable if you are fostering just one kitten.

3 weeks is a good age to introduce the kittens to the litter box (you may want to start with an aluminum pie plate or lasagna tray, which is more accessible than a regular litter box would be). After you feed each kitten, simply place it in the box and let it familiarize itself with the new "toilet." You'll be amazed at how quickly and naturally kittens figure out what to do. The best thing you can do is to keep the litter box clean (promptly remove stools and clumps of urine) so that it will be a place the kittens want to go to. Another trick is to wipe the kitten's rectum and put the smelly tissue in the litter box. The kitten will naturally cover up the soiled tissue, which will help to educate him or her on proper toilet etiquette. Note: It's best to avoid sandy clumping litter that can cause problems if the kittens ingest it.

At this stage, when kittens are more active and are eating and eliminating more, they may need to be cleaned occasionally. Keeping the kittens clean teaches them to groom themselves and helps prevent skin problems. How often and how thoroughly your kittens need to be cleaned will vary. Most kittens are very tidy and will only need to have their face and bottom wiped with a moist cloth after meals or after a bowel movement. You may find it practical to cut an old washcloth or towel into several small cloths. Moist cotton balls are useful for cleaning eyes and ears.

4 weeks old

Your kittens will grow very quickly. Once they reach about 4 weeks, you'll notice them learning new skills almost every day. This rapid progress will delight you, and it will also confront you with new challenges as you try to stay one step ahead. At this age kittens will begin climbing, running around, and actively playing with toys and with each other. By now they are probably using the litter box regularly with few if any accidents. This is the time to begin weaning the kittens, a gradual process which usually takes up to 2 weeks to complete.

Start the weaning process by offering the kittens prepared KMR formula thickened with a little baby rice cereal. You can offer it first from the bottle (you may have to enlarge the nipple a bit) and then in a bowl. At first they won't know how to eat from the bowl, and they may simply walk away. A few simple tricks may help:

  1. Gently push the kitten's head into the food dish; or
  2. put a little food on your finger and gently force it into the kitten's mouth; or
  3. put a little food on tip of kitten's nose; he will lick it off and taste the food.

The more the kittens eat on their own, the less bottlefeeding you'll be doing. When you begin the weaning process, you can offer the bottle to one kitten while the others eat from the bowl. The key word here is patience. Some kittens learn more rapidly than others. Eventually everyone catches on.

Once the kittens are used to KMR and cereal mixture, add a little dry kitten food (you might want to crush it first so that it will be easier to chew) moistened with formula, and eventually you can try a little canned food added to the concoction.

You can also start putting a bowl of fresh water and a bowl of dry kitten food in the kittens' area. After a while, the smartest kitty will figure out what the bowls are for, and the others will imitate their brainy sibling.

5-8 weeks old

By the end of this period the kittens should be completely weaned and litter trained. They will be spending more and more time awake, and will enjoy running, climbing, wrestling, and chasing each other (and anything else that moves). By now you will probably have named each one and formed close bonds with them. This is the time when you will reap the rewards of all your efforts, as you watch your kittens take on individual personalities.

Vet visit: When kittens reach about 8 weeks, if you have not already taken them to a vet, they will need to go now to be inoculated against distemper. Also, kittens at this age are typically given an oral dose of a liquid called strongid that kills roundworms, a common and easily remedied problem in most kittens.

By this time, you will probably be looking for permanent homes for the kittens you have fostered. Thanks to you, these little creatures have received a healthy start in life from someone who cared enough about their welfare to devote time, energy, and love to them. Congratulations on a job well done!

If you would like help from Delaware Humane Association’s adoption services, please call the shelter (302-571-0111). Staff will do its best to help you as far as our resources allow.


Potential Problems and Suggested Solutions

Kitten will not nurse from bottle.

  1. Make sure that the nipple is not clogged.
  2. Make sure that the kitten's bladder is empty (use tissue procedure described above to induce urination).
  3. If you have tried both of the above remedies and the kitten will still not nurse, perhaps it’s not hungry. Try to feed it again a little later. It’s ok for a kitten to be uninterested in nursing at any given feeding. However, if the kitten goes for more than 2 feedings without taking any nutrition, it may be ill. See below.

Kitten will not nurse and is cold and weak.

  1. If the kitten skips more than 2 feedings, there may be a more serious problem. If the kitten is cold, weak, and lethargic, your first job is to try to warm the kitten. Do not attempt to feed a cold kitten. Wrap it in a warm towel and gently massage it to try to simulate blood flow. Once the kitten is reasonably warm, try feeding it a formula consisting of one part honey to 3 parts warm water. If the kitten refuses the bottle, try using an eyedropper to slowly squirt the honey/water formula into its mouth. Be sure not to give too much formula at once--just a few drops every few minutes. Too much liquid in too short a time might collect in the kitten's lungs and drown it. If you see bubbles coming out of the kitten’s nose, you’re feeding it too aggressively and are causing it to ingest formula into its lungs. This is very dangerous, so slow down.
  2. Within a few hours of careful feeding (see above), the kitten should become stable (warm to touch, increased movement). Now you can give it the honey/water mixture with an eyedropper or the bottle every few hours for the next 24 hours. Keep the kitten warm. Wrap it in a towel that has been put in the clothes dryer for a few minutes. Another way to keep the kitten warm is to place it on a heating pad set on low. It’s very important that you put a thick towel on the pad so that the kitten doesn’t come in direct contact with it (this could seriously burn the kitten). Also, make sure there is an area in the cat bed that is free of the heating pad. This will give the kitten a place to go to if the heating pad becomes too warm.
  3. Once the kitten regains strength, you can resume feeding it the kitten milk replacement formula at regular intervals.
  4. If at all possible, consult a veterinarian if you cannot resolve this situation.

Diarrhea

  1. Reduce the amount of KMR powder in the formula.
  2. Add a little cooked mashed white rice to the kitten’s formula. The starch will help control the diarrhea.
  3. Feed the kitten a little plain yogurt that contains live culture (stated on carton). Yogurt is excellent nutrition and helps calm stomach and intestinal turbulence.
  4. If diarrhea persists for more than a couple of days, it will require veterinary care. The problem may be parasites, which can be treated with medication. Or, the kitten may be ill. Regardless of what is causing the diarrhea, this situation requires a vet's care. Kittens can die of dehydration, so diarrhea cannot be left untreated.

Eye irritation

  1. This may be caused by dust, kitten's sharp nails, etc., or it may be a sign of infection. Try wiping the kitten's eye with a soft cloth or cotton ball dampened with warm water. If the condition persists, antibiotic ointment, available from a vet, may be needed.

The Delaware Humane Association sincerely hopes that users of this manual will find it helpful. DHA thanks all compassionate people who try to save the lives of helpless kittens.

Delaware Humane Association is supported by:  Pets for the Elderly Foundation